There had been tremendous changes in women’s fashion in the first 20 years of the 20th century.
Reasons included the number of women going out to work. This had led to the introduction of the suit for women’s day wear.. During the First World War many women had taken over men’s jobs, at least for the duration.
This led to some extent to a masculinity of women’s clothing with the more daring members of high society even wearing trousers for leisure such as the actress Charlotte Andler depicted on the web page ‘The Garconnes or the First Women in Trousers’.Women had worn trousers in factories, but it would be the 1930’s before they became generally acceptable for everyday wear according to ‘Dress Emancipation for Women through Sport’. Also more women were financially independent than previously. The cinema and news reels led to exposure to new styles such as those worn by film stars and royalty.
The former led to growth in the cosmetic industry. Tanning became all the range, Vogue in 1929 stating that’ the 1929 girl must be tanned’ Whereas previously tanned skin was only associated with hard outdoor labor. All this meant more rapid changes in fashion than had previously gone on. 920s In earlier years high fashion had been only for the aristocracy and the richest members of society.
But society was changing and new clothing styles were much simpler in their construction. This, together with home sewing machines and the availability of paper patterns such as those from Butterick, meant many women, especially in the middle classes were able to create their own clothes at home for moderate prices. In 1924 the ‘One Hour’ dress pattern was being sold with 17 variations, and then of course everybody could choose their own fabric and color and so each dress could be unique.All of them aimed at the fashionable long and cylindrical shape, totally different from the corseted S and large unibosomed look of the Edwardian era.
From 1913 onwards skirt lengths had gradually risen, although this was not a consistent rise. By 1918 the hemlines were calf length. This was also the year when there was a failed attempt to introduce a National Standard Dress, a utility garment with metal buckles meant to be worn for every occasion – even as night wear. The idea sank without trace according to the Fashion Era web page, but other changes were in the air.
Between 1918 and 1920 the hem length remained steady but waist lines, already loose and unfitted, dropped by several inches towards the hips. There were many styles with dipping or scalloped hems giving an illusion of beings shorter than they actually were. Even the cheapest, ready made clothes would have quite elaborate trims and cuts. New factory production methods mean that these could be produced quickly and inexpensively.
The 1920-30. com web page speaks of fashion being associated with changes in transport and architecture.The art Deco styles found in buildings and interiors of the time were reflected in clothing styles with more modern geometric lines and inset panels. In the 1920’s this was coupled together with a new sense of freedom.
Another influence was the Egyptian discoveries of 1923. Co-ordination was important with hats, bags, shoes, jewellery and costume being colour co-ordinated. Paris continued to be a source of new ideas – Carol Nolan mentions the use of scarves etc because of ideas gleaned from Coco Chanel. Even silk or rayon stockings, sheer for the first time, were made in many colors and patterns.
The new style seamless stockings could make the legs look naked. There were new fabrics to be used, such as acetate which appeared on the market in 1924, and even new colours available. Vogue, Queen and other modern magazines were issued for the first time. The new bias cut, invented according to Vintage vixen.
com, by Madelaine Vionnet, meant a new way of fabric being used. While day wear remained fairly plain in crepe, georgette, knitted fabrics and light suiting in the evenings beading became ever more elaborate and silk was important.It was not until the mid 1920s that the skirts rose as high as those we in hindsight associate with the 1920’s. It is because we so often see pictures of dancers with skirts flying that we tend to think all skirts then were short.
Between 1926-and 1928 however knee caps were visible in certain styles. By 1929 uneven hems were back as well as sheer overskirts over shorter underskirts. By 1930 the Depression had arrived and hemlines had dropped again to several inches below the knee. Dresses were sleeveless or cap sleeves were worn according to the Vintage Vixen Clothing Co.
eb page ‘Fashion History 1920’ The Peter Pan collars and flat chests were part of a youthful image sought by all. Dieting became a fad, all in an effort to produce the required silhouette, that of a pre-pubescent girl. Working women did not have as much time for complicated hairstyles. Heads were as streamlined as the new motorcars.
Women wanted something that they could wash and dry quickly and so short cropped styles arrived. Film actress Ann Harding describes these new styles as symbolic of new freedom for women in her 1927 article for Ladies Home Journal.Hairdressing salons had an ever increasing number of ways to dress the hair – wavers, shingles, permanent waves, bleach and all the rest. Underwear – bras were being worn, though not by all Often these offered no support, but were more like camisoles.
It would not be until the next decade before manufacturers began to deal with the fact that women had different cup sizes and before bras that tended to separate the breasts were available. Meanwhile larger breasted women bandaged their breasts flat in order to acquire the fashionable boyish shape.Other women wore little or no underwear in order to achieve their desired look. Knees were rouged and stockings rolled over garters in order to avoid wearing corsets.
Health and beauty clubs and classes were popular, because women though they would help them achieve the desired shape. In the ’Weird Clothes of Women’, an article from ‘The Saturday Review’ of 1925, the author speaks of the custom of centuries being stood on its head and claims that the first short skirt sounded the death knell of the fashion designer. The latter may not have proved right, but the former statement certainly proved to be correct.Conclusion The more conservative members of society did not really understand what was going on.
Women had the vote. They saw women smoking, and drinking openly, despite prohibition, and skirts rising higher and higher. Women had always kept their legs covered. Now they were even driving cars and unchaperoned dating was all around.
Life just seemed to be about fun and glamour and in general the conservatives disapproved as what they saw as the conventions of female behaviour being destroyed. Even ‘petting parties’ became popular young behavior.The ‘Just The Swing’ web page ‘1920’s Women’s Fashion’ claims that young women were angry with society for the death of so many young men in the recent war that they no longer felt obliged to obey societies constraints. The author claims this, and not the 1960’s, as the first youth revolution.
For the first time older women copied or yearned for what the younger people had and did. Although the 1930’s were to bring harder times , and many women were not as free to make their own choices as they might wish, fashion has never gone back to the rigidity of the very early 20th century.
